Choosing a wood combusiton heater
There are a large number of wood heaters on the market, and all are suitable for different types of homes. It is a good idea to determine the following, before looking into purchasing a new heater.
- Inbuilt or Freestanding. Do you already have an existing heater or creating a space for a new one? Size will be a big factor if you are trying to replace a heater or install a new inbuilt version.
- Area to heat. How big is your home, how many rooms are you trying to heat? All heaters will have a rough square meter coverage. Or you can use our more comprehensive guide under "How do I calculate what size heater I need?"
- Radient or Convection. Do you have a small space or corner to fit into? Do you have pets or young children? Do you have a power point nearby? Do you want to be able to boil water on the top? (Read the radient and convection dropdown for more info)
- Style, do you prefer a traditional or modern design?
- Efficiency vs Budget. Efficiency can save you money (or your back) in the long run, but are not always the cheapest option upfront. Try to get the most efficient option your budget, size and style will allow.
How a wood heater distributes heat through your space, and the difference is more about heat movement than just “feel.”
Convection heating works by circulating air. The heater draws in cool air, warms it, and releases it back into the room. As that warm air rises, cooler air replaces it and the cycle continues. Over time, this creates a steady flow of warm air throughout the room, leading to even, consistent heat distribution.
Radiant heating, on the other hand, works by emitting heat directly from the heater’s surface. This heat travels outward and warms nearby people and objects immediately, rather than relying on air movement. The result is strong, direct heat in the immediate area, rather than a gradual whole-room effect.
The key differences are:
Convection:
- Heats the air, building even warmth over time
- Double skinned and does not radiate as much heat from the sides.
- Safer for children and pets.
- Can fit into tighter spaces and corners due to smaller clearances
- Heat emits primarily from one vent.
- Usually requies a powerpoint to power inbuilt fan (fan forced options only)
Radient
- Heats objects and people directly, giving fast, intense local heat
- Single skinned box will heat to extreme temperatures.
- Can be unsafe for children and pets due to extreme surface temperatures.
- Requries larger clearances (can be made smaller by shields on some models)
- Can be cooked on. Top acts like a stovetop to boil water.
- Doesn't requires power.
Note: There are some models of convection heaters that have a radient top only.
Clearances are the minimum safe distances that must be maintained between a wood heater and combustible materials such as walls, furniture, curtains, and other flammable items.
These distances are critical for fire safety and are specified by the heater manufacturer. You can find the clearances for each specific heater in their brochure (sometimes located towards the back) or on specification sheets.
Clearances are determined by rigorous testing and are required for compliant installation. Failure to meet these clearances could result in heat damage or worse, house fires, which are unlikely to be covered by insurance.
Radient heaters will have naturally larger clearance requirements, while convection heaters are suitable for locations with tighter spaces. Some radient heaters have optional shields, which reduce the clearance distances.
Note: If you have combustible flooring (anything except slate, tile, brick, concrete) you will also have to allow room for a hearth.
A hearth is the non-combustible surface (like tile, stone, granite) that sits under and around your wood heater or fireplace.
Its main job is safety. It protects your floor from:
- Heat radiating from the heater
- Burning embers or sparks that might fall out
- Accidental logs rolling out of the firebox
Australian standards require a properly sized hearth because it reduces fire risk, and qualified installers will not install a heater without the correct hearth. Each individual heater has it's own specific size requirements, stated in the instllation manual.
If your floor is already made from non-combustable materials, a hearth is not required.
Efficiency rating measures how much energy from the fuel is converted into usable warmth for your home, rather than lost up the chimney or through other means. A higher efficiency rating means more of the wood's energy heats your space, reducing the amount of wood you need to burn and lowering your heating costs.
Most modern wood heaters are rated between 60-85% efficiency, with higher ratings indicating better performance and fuel economy.
Combustion heaters will provide a kW rating and a rough square meter coverage. The coverage rating is an estimate based on kw rating under test conditions - including 2.4m high ceilings.
While it is unlikey that you will be using the heater under the same conditions, it is a good guide to narrow down and compare options.
For a more comprehensive guide, you can use the following to calculate your kW per m2:
Adelaide Hills Climate: 1kW/ 14m2
- Ceiling height higher than 2.4m but less than 3m? -0.5m2
- Ceiling height above 3m? -0.7m2
- House built on Piers or Piles (wooden floor)? -0.5m2
- No carpet on the floor? -0.5m2
- No Insulation in the Ceiling? -1m2
- Exceed minimum standard insulation? +1m2
- Blockout curtains installed? +1m2
- Room glazing more than 15% of total wall area? (single glaze) -1m2
- Room glazing more than 30% of total wall area? (single glaze) -2m2
Most of the time, yes.
Depending on how the fireplace and chimney have been constructed, it is usually possible to place either a new inbuilt or freestanding wood heater inside your existing fireplace. Sometimes major work is needed to retrofit a new heater.
We offer a free no-obligation site visit to check if it possible. However before booking an appointment, we recommend:
- Looking into your budget, style and size heater you require.
- Exposing the fireplace (if not already) by taking the facia off your inbuilt or gyprock off the boarded up fireplace.
- Measuring the space you have to work with.
- (If possible) Place a mirror to see whether you can see daylight up the chimney.
- Check to see whether the stone/brick chimney continues above the roof line or stops within the ceiling cavity.
- Visit us in store or email us with photographs and dimensions of your fireplace. We can guide you in store or via email to what options are available.
This can be a complicated answer as it is dependant on a lot of factors. While the best thing is to talk to one of our staff members directly, we will ask you the following questions:
Reusing a flue:
- How old is the flue?
- What is the condition like?
- Is it an enamel flue?
- Does it have a dropbox (a 10inch round tube surrounding the flue coming down from the ceiling)
- Do you have bends in your flue, either in room or ceiling cavity?
- If unsure, can you show us photo?
New install:
- Do you have combustibe gyprock or non-combustible stone/brick walls?
Note: non-combustable materials such as tile/slate/stone veneer must be over 70mm thick to classify as non-combustable. - How high are your ceilings?
- How high is your roof cavity, in the location where the flue will go.
- Do you have a new build that is rated over 7 star energy rated?
- (Inbuilt only) is it a brick chimney or stud frame built out.
All of our new freestanding flue kits are 4m in length, with a stainless steel wind cowl upgrade as standard.
Combustible material walls require some sort of flue sheild, either standard, decromesh or solid outer.
7+ star rated homes require a rear air inktake snorkle or air flue system.
You can read about the three different types of flue systems Click here: Visionline Flue Systems
Wood combustion heaters are generally allowed across all South Australian councils, provided they are properly installed and comply with Australian Standards (AS/NZS 4013). This includes both Mount Barker and Adelaide Hills councils.
Due to the changes in compliance for new heaters, the amount of emissions is greatly reduced, and therefore better quality of air within densly populated areas.
However please check with your local council or estate website for more information.
Both! We do everything from instore quotes, site visits and installation.
And you can also choose to do the install yourself. We can provide you with all the parts required, as well as the guidelines from the Australian standards book. Unlike electrical, plumbing and gas work, fireplace installation does not require signing off. As long as it meets the Australian standards for installation.
Cleaning and Maintenance
For the first few times the appliance is lit, odorous fumes will be given off as the paint cures.
Do not touch the paint work either on the flue or heater while it is curing otherwise it can leave a permanent mark.
For best paint curing it is best not to run too hot of fire for the first couple of uses, instead operate the fire on a medium setting. Keep the room well-ventilated until these fumes have cleared. Once the paint has cured, this will not re-occur.
This is also applicable if you repaint a heater.
Burn only seasoned hardwood timber with a moisture content of less than 20%. You can check this with a moisture meter.
Newly cut wood should be split and allowed to dry/season for 12 to 18 months before use.
Wood should also be stored in an environment protected from the weather to minimise any potential moisture content.
Even wood bought from wood yards is not guarenteed to be fully seasoned or stored in a dry environment. This is not always the fault of the yard. Wood from different years can take longer to dry out, depending on growth cycles or weather events.
To start your fire, use softer wood as kindling until a healthy ember bed is formed. Once it is formed, hardwood such as red or blue gum is a good choice for large heat output and longer burn times.
Greybox or Redbox is great for overnight burns, as it has a higher density rating and will burn for hours. However it is not recommended to use as the first hardwood placed on the fire.
Video: How to light your wood fire
- Ensure the Air Slide is in the open or high position.
- In the firebox lay your fire lighters 10 to 15 centimetres apart, depending on the size of your firebox. Do not use newspaper as a fire lighter.
- Add soft wood kindling in a criss cross pattern above the firelighters. Softwood kindling allows for fire to light quicker and burn hotter.
- Light fire with match or gas lighter, when fire is ablaze close the door, but do not latch the door. Leave for 5-10 minutes maximum and do not leave unattended.
- Load pieces of hardwood that are no wider than a drink can in a criss cross pattern.
- Latch the door and leave latched for 30 minutes. If your heater has a fan, do not run the fan for at least 45 minutes.
- After 30 minutes add the large pieces of hardwood. These pieces should be no bigger than a loaf of bread. Close and latch door after loading.
- After 45 minutes you can adjust the air slide to slow fire down and find your comfort level. If you have a fan fitted you can now turn it on.
Cleaning a wood heater involves both the heater unit and the flue/chimney.
Regular Cleaning includes the following steps.
- Remove excess ash and debris from the firebox - Make sure that you are only removing completely cooled ash. It is recommended to shovel out the ash, as the paticles can clog vaccume filters. If you do not have a brick base, leaving a small amount of ash in the base, can help protect the bottom of the fire box.
- Cleaning the glass door - Clean the glass by using a specalised firebox glass cleaner or a combination of newspaper/paper towel dipped in water and firebox ash. Use a round scrubbing motion and wiping clean.
- While cleaning out the firebox, it is a good idea to also check the condition of your internal components such as the baffle plate, firebricks and door/glass ropes and seals. Damage to your baffle, bricks and seals could result in reduced efficiency of your heater.
A yearly inspection of your flue and cowl is recommended, with cleaning if required. Sweeping out the flue and chimney regularly helps reduce creosote build up.
To clean your flue, you can either use a DIY flexi-pole brush cleaner kit from inside the room or a chimney brush and rope dropped down from the roof. If your flue has any bends, the drop down method is recommended.
Flexi-pole Kit method:
- Cover the area in front of the fire with a drop sheet.
- Remove baffle plate from inside firebox
- Attached flexipole length(s) to brush
- Feed brush up through the firebox into the flue and push the brush head the entire length of the flue.
- Pull back through.
- Repeat this until no more ash/creosote falls out.
- Replace baffle
Drop down method:
You will require access to the roof and a drill to remove the chimney cowl.
- Attach the brush to a rope (longer than your flue) Note: if the rope is lightweight, a small weight attached to the other end will help it drop correctly.
- Remove the cowl on the flue top.
- Drop the rope down the chimney and place the brush in flue
- Return to the firebox, remove the baffle plate
- Locate the end of the rope and gently but firmly pull brush through.
- Repeat steps 3-5 until no ash or creosote drops down
- Replace cowl and baffle plate.
When cleaning your fireplace and flue, please make sure you are working safely, especially at heights and using protective equipment such as masks.
No, you do not require a professional. You can follow the steps above to clean the flue yourself.
However if you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself, you can hire a professional cleaner.
Locally we can recommend Peter Cooper from 4th Generation Chimney Sweep.
0419 354 428
You should clean the inside of the heater and glass as soon as you see a build up of ash or lots of soot on the glass. This can be a few times a season.
Note: if your glass is blackening or large amount of soot after one burn, there could other factors causing this. Please see details under Troubleshooting section.
Your flue should be assessed every year. It is recommended to clean it before every season to keep away creosote build up.
Creosote is a highly flammable, tar-like deposit in a chimney that consists of soot, chemicals, and a range of particles originating from incomplete combustion when burning wood or smokeless fuels.
As creosote is flammable and sticky, it can build up unnoticed and become a fire hazard within the home.
Burning properly seasoned and dry wood and correct use of your wood heater reduces the build up of creosote.
Regular cleaning of your flue and heater also helps reduce the natural build up.
Blackened glass is usually caused by incomplete combustion. This happens when the fire isn’t burning hot enough or isn’t getting enough air.
Common causes:
- Burning unseasoned or damp wood
- Restricted airflow (air vents closed too much)
- Poor-quality or soft wood
- A weak or cold fire
How to prevent it:
- Always burn dry, well-seasoned hardwood
- Start fires hot and fast to establish strong flames early
- Avoid closing the air vents too far, especially during startup
- Clean the glass regularly with a damp cloth and ash (when cool)
A clean-burning fire will keep your glass clearer for longer.
Surface rust is common on older heaters or heaters that have had some water damage, this can usually be restored with some simple maintenance.
Steps to restore your heater:
- Ensure the heater is completely cool and disconnected from power.
- Use fine-grit sandpaper to gently remove rust from affected areas
- Wipe away dust and debris with a clean cloth
- Apply a high-temperature (heat-resistant) spray paint designed for wood heaters
- Allow the paint to dry as per manufacturer instructions
Important – Paint curing process:
After respraying, the heater must go through a curing process. This involves lighting a series of small fires to gradually heat the paint. You may notice some smell or light smoke during this process—this is normal. Ensure the area is well ventilated.
Troubleshooting
There are a few reasons why your wood fire may be extinguishing itself. Take notice of when your fire is extinguishing, this will elimate possible reasons.
If your fire is going out as you are starting it:
-Poor Chimney Draft: A cold chimney can prevent air from flowing easily up the flue. "Prime" the flue by using the top down method of setting a fire, as well as using firelighters that burn for longer than paper.
Damp or Unseasoned Wood: Wood with over 20% moisture will hiss, smoke, and go out because the heat is used to evaporate water instead of burning. Use a moisture meter, or ensure your wood was split and dried for at least 2 months.
Insufficient Airflow (Oxygen): Closing air vents too quickly or overfilling the firebox restricts air flow. Keep vents fully open until the fire is well-established.
No Coal Bed: A fire needs a hot bed of coals, not just wood, to stay lit. Use more kindling to start the fire to build up this base.
Blocked Airflow: Too much ash buildup or stacking logs too tightly stifles the fire.
Glass on a wood combustion heater blackens when the fire isn’t burning cleanly. That soot buildup is usually a sign of poor combustion rather than a fault with the heater itself.
Reasons for build up:
Unseasoned or wet wood
Wood with high moisture content creates more smoke, which sticks to the glass instead of burning off.
Fix: Use only properly seasoned wood that has been stored out of the rain.
Low burn / air turned down too far
Slowing the fire too much reduces combustion temperature, leading to incomplete burning and soot.
Fix: When placing a new piece of wood on the fire, keep the air inktake open on high for 10-15 mins.
Poor airflow or draft
Blocked flues, short flue systems, or restricted air vents can prevent proper airflow.
Fix: Make sure your flue and baffle are cleaned regularly. If your fireplace is new within a new build, you may need to discuss external air intakes, please contact to discuss.
Incorrect fire setup
A smouldering fire (instead of a bright, active flame) produces more creosote and soot.
Fix: Use the top-down method when starting the fire, and keep the air inktake open full until the fire is well established. Use dry kindling and only seasoned hardwood.
If it is currently leaking, take photo and/or videos of where it is leaking from, that it can be determined where the leak needs to be fixed once it is no longer raining.
If your dektite/flashing has not been replaced
It’s usually a sign of wear or a fault that needs attention.
Listen to the type of noise
- Grinding or squealing is likely worn bearings and may need
- Rattling loose components and could be fixed.
- No sound at all is a possible motor or electrical failure
Turn the heater off and let it cool.
Always ensure the heater is completely off and cool before disasembling the acess panel (see installation manual)
If there is no sound at all: Inspect the power supply and make sure:
- The fan is plugged in properly (if external)
- Any switches or controls are functioning
- There are no visible damaged wires
Check for loose screws or excessive ash buid up:
- Use a brush or vaccume to remove dust, ash, or debris buildup in the fan.
- Check for loose screws or mounting brackets
- Check for any obstructions preventing the fan from spinning freely
If this does not fix the problem, you may need to replace the fan.
Fan units are often replaceable.
Please contact us with the make and model of your heater for pricing.
Most of the time yes, but it is dependant on the age, brand and model of the heater.
If it is a Nectre, we hold stock of most door parts (such as door rope, glass, retainers) as well as Bricks.
Additional parts and items for Blaze, Massport and Heatmaster heaters can be found on GlenDimplex's parts website: Spare Parts
Parts for other heater brands may also be available. Please contact us with the make and model of your heater, and we will advise whether we are able to source the required parts for you.
